Vegetarian Chili with Avocado Cream

Boil 3 cups water in a medium saucepan. Meanwhile, heat a cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat. Add ancho chiles and toast, turning frequently, until fragrant and darkened, about 2 minutes. Transfer to a medium mixing bowl and cover with boiling water. (Use a small bowl or plate to keep submerged, if necessary.) Let stand until chiles are very soft, at least 30 minutes.

Meanwhile, place cumin seeds in skillet over medium heat and toast, stirring frequently, until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Immediately transfer to a mortar and pestle or spice grinder and let cool completely. Grind to a fine powder; set aside.

Drain ancho chiles, reserving soaking liquid; remove and discard stems and seeds. Place chiles in mortar and pestle with garlic and chipotle chiles, and pound into a thick paste (or pulse in a food processor). Set aside.

Heat oil in a large pot over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add chopped vegetables and 1 tablespoon salt and cook, stirring frequently, until caramelized and golden brown, 45 minutes to 1 hour. (Reduce heat if necessary to prevent blackening.)

Add cumin and cook over medium-high heat, stirring, until fragrant, 30 seconds. Add chile mixture, tomato paste, and 1 teaspoon salt and cook, stirring, 5 minutes. Stir in tomatoes, reserved chile-soaking liquid, lentils, and 5 cups water. Increase heat to high and bring to a boil, then reduce heat to low, cover, and simmer, stirring occasionally, 30 minutes.

Add sweet potatoes, black beans, and black-eyed peas, stirring to combine. Return to a simmer and cook, covered, stirring occasionally, until lentils and potatoes are tender, about 30 minutes. Serve with cilantro and avocado cream.