What Is Durian—and What Does It Taste Like?

If you've ever wondered what durian tastes like, chances are you're an adventurous eater who's heard a thing or two about this holy grail of tropical fruits. Certainly, the durian's reputation precedes it; besides its unusual flavor, its aroma is the stuff of legend, prompting extreme love/hate reactions among the produce-curious. We connected with an exotic fruit expert and a cookbook author and discovered just how prized—and reviled—this fascinating fruit is.

What Is Durian?

A seasonal tropical fruit cultivated in Indonesia, the Philippines, Malaysia, Vietnam, and southern Thailand, durian (Durio zibethinus) is a member of the genus Durio and is related to breadfruit and jackfruit. Considered a superfood, durian is packed with fiber, antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals.

"Native to Southeast Asia, it's sometimes called the 'king of fruit' in that region, and the connotation has made its way to the U.S." says Desiree Pardo Morales, founder and president of Tropical Fruit Box, a Miami-based online purveyor that grows and procures tropical and exotic fruit.

Size and Appearance

The fruit's nickname stems from its nutritional makeup and imposing appearance and heft. Some cultivars are up to a foot long, ranging from 6 to 8 inches in diameter.

"Durian has a regal look with its thorn-covered rind," says Morales. "It's also majestic in size, weighing around six pounds." The husk is thick, spiky, and yellowish-brown or green, and has five oval-shaped compartments called carpels, holding edible white or yellow pouch-like pods. The larger fleshy pouches usually surround a large seed, says Kat Lieu, author of Modern Asian Kitchen and founder of the Subtle Asian Baking community. Some pouches have several seeds, which can be roasted or boiled. 

Asian markets also sell frozen durian whole or pre-shelled and packaged in plastic containers. Its texture is stringier than fresh fruit, says Morales.

What Does Durian Taste Like?

In a word, a durian tastes divine, says Lieu, noting that its creamy, custardy pulp has a unique hold on devotees. "Durian is honestly such an experience!" she says. "Once you're a fan of durian, you're a forever fan." 

• It's nuanced: "I think it tastes rich, subtly sweet, floral, with notes of vanilla, almond, and cream," says Lieu.
• It's complex: Depending on your palate and the variety consumed, it can also reveal a riot of diverse flavors. "The taste can best be described as a mixture of vanilla, diced garlic with notes of pepper, and caramel mixed with whipped cream," says Morales.
• It has a lasting impression: It is a taste you won't soon forget. "It has a long finish that will leave the taste in your mouth for a while," says Morales.
  

What Does Durian Smell Like?

While some food lovers treasure this singular fruit, durian is not universally loved. It has an unmistakable scent that plays a large role in winning fans as well as foes.

"Durian is a connoisseur's fruit and may not be for everyone," emphasizes Morales. "For the experienced, the aroma consists of a pleasantly sweet fragrance. For the untrained, it can be a little overpowering."

How overpowering? Due to its odor, durian is banned on public transport in Singapore, notes Lieu. While she adores the scent, many find it, well, offputting. "Some people describe it as rotten, sewage, onions, garlic, cat poo, or baby diapers," she says. "My nose just finds the scent of durian floral and alluring."

Depending on your perspective, it can smell like fancy cheese or used gym socks, adds Morales.

Why Durian Is So Expensive

Fresh durian is not commonplace; expect to shell out a handsome sum wherever you track it down. "We source two popular durian varieties from Southeast Asia, known for their premium taste and high prices, Musang King and Monthong," says Morales. Her company sells a single fruit for $134. "This is the most expensive fruit we've ever procured," she says. While pricey, the price is nonetheless competitive, she adds, thanks to her company's established relationships with farmer families  And it sells out quickly. A few reasons why it's so expensive:

• Cultivating and harvesting durian isn't an easy undertaking, says Lieu. Harvesting at peak ripeness can also be backbreaking. The tall, spiky tree branches necessitate special cutting and climbing techniques, plus nets to catch the fruit as it falls to the ground.
• Supply and demand: "For as long as I can remember (and I'm talking three-plus decades), there has been a high demand for durian, especially among East and Southeast Asians and their diasporas, so you have a high demand for a labor-intensive fruit," says Lieu.
• Climate change, drought, and unpredictable weather also factor into the steep prices.

How to Eat Durian

Once you get your hands on this trophy fruit, treat it royally. First, determine if it's ripe by applying gentle pressure throughout the husk and see if it gives slightly, says Morales. Next, put on a pair of gloves and get to work. "Cut through the skin at the top just enough to pry it open with your hands, then scoop out the flesh,” says Morales. The flesh decomposes quickly, so it should be eaten or cooked pronto.

Sweet, Savory, or Solo

Here are some of the best ways to savor durian:

• Fresh and cold: Both experts enjoy durian the most in its raw form, preferably cold.
• Dessert: "I've made it into an ice cream, and used it for cream puff filling," says Lieu. Milkshakes and puddings are also durian-friendly.
• Main dish: "The sweet flavor and creamy consistency make for a great addition to cooked sauces for recipes like durian chicken curry," says Morales. 

Lieu, however, stops short of savory applications."People have made durian ramen and curries, but I have not gone there yet. I have strong feelings for durian, and feel that something so precious from nature should be enjoyed in its natural glory."