Lard Is a Misunderstood Fat—Learn Why Some Bakers Swear By It

It might not be an ingredient you hear about very often today, but lard has been used in kitchens around the world for centuries—and for good reason. Lard is a versatile form of fat, famous for producing the flakiest biscuits and pie crusts. While misinformed marketing in the early 1900s made the public believe that lard is a bad or controversial product, it definitely has its place in today's kitchen. So let go of what you’ve heard about this fat and learn why we are Team Lard. Here, we talk to experts about when you should use lard and how it compares to other fats.

What Is Lard?

Lard is a type of cooking fat that is made from the fatty tissues of pigs. It is typically made by rendering (melting and clarifying) pork fat to separate the liquid fat from the solid components. The resulting ingredient is a smooth and creamy substance that is versatile and flavorful. 

While it’s not as popular everywhere in the United States as it once was, lard is a staple fat in several cuisines and is used in many parts of the world. Industrialization in the United States at the end of the 19th century played a crucial role in scaling up pork production. This meant by 1875, the U.S. was exporting 75 million pounds of pork a year to the United Kingdom, and that number would reach 200 million pounds by 1900. This made lard an important part of the early American economy.

Types of Lard

There are three forms of lard primarily found in markets today:

Rendered 

Rendered lard is the result of a process called rendering, which involves melting and clarifying the fat from pork. The process separates the fat from the connective tissues and impurities, leaving a pure and smooth substance. This pork fat typically comes from the back or the abdomen of the pig. The fat is cut into small pieces, cleaned to remove any remaining bits of meat or other impurities, and then slowly melted over low heat. Then, the melted fat is strained to remove the solid impurities, leaving behind a clear liquid. The strained liquid is then allowed to cool and solidify into a creamy white substance.

Rendered lard is found in the refrigerated section of some grocery stores and is available from some butchers.

Leaf

Leaf lard gets its name because it's made from the visceral, or "leaf," fat deposits that surround the kidneys and loin of a pig. "Leaf lard can be hard to find—it's also known as kidney fat," says Shawn Matijevich, lead chef-instructor of online culinary arts and food operations at the Institute of Culinary Education. Seek it out at a local butcher's or farmers' market. "It is the cream of the crop," he says.

New York-based food stylist, baker, and recipe developer Caitlin Haught Brown agrees: "I prefer leaf lard for baking; it's incredibly delicate and neutral in flavor," she says. Brown learned about using lard from her family, which has roots in Virginia and parts of the Southern United States, where cooking with lard was a large part of the culture and is still relatively common today.

Processed 

Processed lard refers to lard that has undergone specific treatments or refining procedures to achieve certain qualities and to extend its shelf life, usually allowing it to be shelf stable. The degree of processing can vary but usually includes steps such as filtering, bleaching, and deodorizing. Processed lard is sold in grocery stores, sometimes in the baking section and sometimes in the refrigerated dairy section near butter.

Our experts prefer leaf lard to processed: "The only issue I have with the highly processed lard is that it has been messed with too much," says Matijevich. "It takes away a lot of the character of the flavor and some of the great properties of lard."  

Flavor and Texture

Many home cooks who haven't cooked or baked a lot with lard aren't aware that the fat you get from different parts of the animal has different characteristics, says Matijevich. "The fat from the head is sweeter and creamier," he says. "The kidney fat is highly saturated, firm, and barely has any pork flavor." More widely available, lesser quality lard is produced from fatback (yes, that's the fat from the back) or caul fat (surrounding the intestines and other digestive organs) of the pig. "If you don't want porky flavor or musk, then go for the leaf fat or the highly processed fat," says Matijevich.

The Benefits of Cooking With Lard

Lard is a prized for several reasons:

• High smoke point: Lard has a relatively high smoke point of 375 degrees Fahrenheit, making it well-suited for higher-temperature cooking methods like frying and sautéing.
• Improved texture: When used in baking, lard can improve the texture of some foods, such as pie crusts and biscuits, resulting in flaky crusts and tender dough.
• Versatility: Lard can be used in a variety of preparations, from frying to baking, and in many different recipes. 
• Economical: Lard is relatively inexpensive, often less expensive than specialty oils or butter, so it’s a cost-effective fat for cooking and baking.
• Natural fat source: Lard is a natural source of fat, and when sourced responsibly, it can be a minimally processed alternative to some commercially available cooking fats such as shortening.
• Honoring traditional cooking methods: With its long history of use in traditional cuisines, lard adds authenticity to certain dishes. It is a key ingredient in the preparation of traditional recipes, particularly in Mexican, U.S. Southern, English, and Chinese cooking.
  

When to Use Lard

Lard is most commonly used in baking and for frying and sautéing. 

Cooking

Just like her grandmother before her, Brown likes using lard, generally rendered or processed lard, for frying chicken and french fries.

Matijevich mostly uses lard for baking, but says it is great for sautéing because it doesn't burn as quickly as whole butter. If he has any leftover lard after baking, "I use it the same way I would use oil for sautéing vegetables, pan frying pork chops, etc."

Traditional uses include refried beans and tamales.

Baking

Bakers know well the magic lard has to make pie and biscuits flaky and light. "It's also more versatile than butter and a lot of other fats," says Brown. Leaf lard, in particular, produces exceptionally tender pastry with a beautiful flake. 

Lard Plus Butter Is the Ultimate Combination: Lard has a place in Brown’s baking, but rather than using just lard, she likes to blend it. "I prefer using a combination of lard and butter when I make biscuits and pie crusts," she says. "You get the best of both worlds using both—superb flakiness and rich flavor."

Shortening vs. Lard

You may have wondered what the difference is between lard and shortening. Turns out, shortening was developed as an alternative to lard, which is why products like Crisco vegetable shortening came about. While the fats are often considered interchangeable, the differences are considerable. "Shortening is processed vegetable oil. It has been partially hydrogenated in order to get it to stay firm at room temperature," says Matijevich. "It doesn't have much flavor." 

While he notes shortening is a suitable substitute for lard, he does have concerns about the health implications of using it. That's pretty ironic, considering shortening was developed and marketed as a healthier alternative to lard. "I enjoy working with the most natural and whole ingredients that I can," Matijevich says. "Leaf lard is just rendered kidney fat. Shortening goes through a long list of industrial processes before it reaches its final state. I try to stay away from ingredients like that, but it is a personal choice."

Shortening Is an Option for Vegetarians and Vegans

Shortening does have one big advantage over lard that is hard to ignore: "Shortening is the best choice for vegetarian or vegan cooks," says Brown. "But, I really think you can't beat lard for a biscuit or pie crust if you're someone who cooks with animal products. I find it to produce a more flavorful, rich result than shortening."