9 'Trap Crops' That Will Naturally Lure Pests Away From Your Favorite Plants

Learn how to protect your favorite plants using trap crops to distract unwanted insects.

Nasturtium flowers
Photo:

Getty Images

What if you could protect your plants from unwanted insects by simply planting carefully chosen "trap crops" elsewhere in your garden? These sacrificial plants would naturally attract pests and distract them from devouring your favorite garden plants, thus providing protection without the use of pesticides. Sounds intriguing, doesn’t it? The great news is that this clever form of natural pest management has proven successful and is commonly used by home gardeners and in commercial agriculture. To learn more, we talked to garden experts for their best tips on using trap crops in the garden.

What Are Trap Crops?

Trap crops are plants intentionally chosen to attract particular garden pests, acting as decoy crops to protect other crops you care more about. "If done effectively, trap crops can help keep insect pests away from the plants you value most in your garden, without needing to use pesticides,” says Annie Klodd, manager of interpretation and visitor learning at the University of Minnesota Extension. 

Why Trap Crops Are Good for Your Garden

Minimizing the need for pesticides is one of the key benefits of trap crops, but there are other benefits, too. "Seeing the pest on a trap plant is a signal that the gardener needs to pay attention to what may be a problem in the garden," says Debra Knapke, horticulturist and author. "When I see aphids on a nasturtium, it tells me to go looking for aphids on my 'treasured' plants and to dispatch any I see with a strong stream of water. But if I notice that lady beetle larvae and adults are on the job, I back off and let them do the work. This is often the case in my garden."

Trap crops are excellent indicators of what pests and predators you have in the garden, and you can use that information as a guide to make further corrections.

Tips for Planting Trap Crops


Set yourself up for success with trap crops by considering these tips.

Manage Expectations

Klodd points out the importance of managing your expectations but adds that there's really no harm in trying a trap crop. "Some reasons they might not work include high insect pest populations (meaning, if there are enough of them, they'll go after all of it), and placing the trap crop in the wrong spot," she says.

Study the Subject

"The recommendations for how to use each trap crop differ, so be sure to read up on the best way to use each one. University Extension services are a good resource for this because the writers use thorough research studies to inform their recommendations,” says Klodd.

Space Appropriately

Be sure to plant trap crops at least 8 to 12 feet away from the plants you’re trying to protect.  

Consider Relationships

The trap value of a plant can be relative, says Knapke. "For the grower of brambles, a rose is a trap plant for Japanese beetle. For the rosarian, raspberry and blackberry are the trap plants for the Japanese beetle. So, any plant that has an associated pest is technically a trap plant."

Pay Attention

"Overall, if gardeners want to be monitoring for emerging pests, they can plant some species that are known to attract them," says Irish-Hanson. "That way the gardeners can be ready to manage any pests on their desired crop."

Common Trap Crops

If you'd like to plant some trap crops in your own garden, try one of these common plants that our experts recommend.

01 of 09

Marigolds

Tagetes erecta (known as the Mexican marigold, Aztec marigold, or African marigold) is a species of the genus Tagetes native to Mexico.


Danil Bukharov / iStock / Getty Images Plus

A happy and colorful addition to any garden, marigolds are easy to grow, widely available, and provide beauty throughout the summer and into the fall (plus deer don’t really bother them, so they can be planted outside a fence). Marigolds can be used as a trap plant for thrips—an annoying insect that preys on a variety of garden plants from alliums to avocados to citrus. Thrips just seem to love marigolds.

  • Zones: 2 to 11 
  • Mature size: 6 to 12 inches tall x 6 to 12 inches wide
  • Care requirements: Full sun; be sure not to over-water
02 of 09

Mustard

Garlic mustard plant

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Flea beetles can be a problem early in the growing season and they love to eat tiny circular holes in the leaves of all kinds of plants—like corn, potatoes, or lettuce. But mustard plants excel at attracting these little nuisances; it’s a fast crop that’s easy to grow. "Arugula, mustard seed, and napa cabbage can help keep flea beetles off of other brassicas like broccoli," says Klodd.

  • Zones: 2 to 11
  • Mature size: 24 to 36 inches tall x 12 to 18 inches wide
  • Care requirements: Full or partial sun; well-drained soil; plenty of water
03 of 09

Sunflowers

American Giant Sunflowers

Westend61 / GETTY IMAGES

Sunflowers add such impact to a garden—whether a 10-foot tall mammoth species or a petite, decorative variety. Additionally, sunflowers have a reputation for success as a trap crop for brown marmorated stink bugs.

  • Zones: 3 to 9
  • Mature size: Depends on variety; 2 to 10 feet tall x 1 to 3 feet wide
  • Care requirements: Full sun; well-drained soil (sandy, loam); plenty of water during germination
04 of 09

Nasturtiums

Nasturtium flowers

Amit KUMAR / GETTY IMAGES

Nasturtiums have charming blossoms that come in various colors and are a noted favorite of pollinators. They’re a fast-growing annual that also has edible leaves and flowers. Nasturtiums also have a reputation as a very effective trap plant for aphids.

  • Zones: 2 to 9
  • Mature size: 18 inches tall x 24 inches wide.
  • Care requirements: Full sun; well-drained (maybe sandy) soil
05 of 09

Blue Hubbard Squash

blue hubbard squash

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Blue Hubbard squash is a winter squash in the same family as pumpkins and decorative gourds. While you can eat Hubbard squash, you might plant it as a trap plant for your pumpkins. "Blue Hubbard squash can sometimes work to attract squash vine borer, to keep it off of pumpkin plants," says Klodd. "It doesn't always work, however, it's worth a try since it's not doing any harm." And you’ll grow some attractive fall decorations in the process. Like other winter squash, Hubbards can have a long growing season, so plant early and let them take their time.

  • Zones: 3 to 12
  • Mature size: 24 to 36 inches tall x 6 feet wide
  • Care requirements: Full sun; plenty of water
06 of 09

Millet

Millet

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You probably don’t grow a lot of grains in your garden, but you might try a bit of millet—it’s a cereal grain that can be ground into a flour or cooked like rice. Whether you actually consume the millet is beside the point—the grain grows quickly, and attracts squash bugs, so Knapke suggests that it can serve as an early warning system for those "infuriating" annual menaces.

  • Zone: 2 to 10
  • Mature size: 12 to 48 inches tall x 12 inches wide
  • Care requirements: Full sun, well-drained soil
07 of 09

Brassicas

Kale leaves growing in the garden

Wera Rodsawang/Getty Images

Sometimes it’s all about perspective. "Most plants have the potential to be a trap plant," says Knapke. "It depends on which plants are important to the gardener. I watch all of the brassicas (collards, kale, kohlrabi) for the larval stage of the cabbage white butterfly. This is a case of the preferred plant being its own trap plant."

  • Zone: 2 to 10
  • Mature size: Varies; 12 to 24 inches tall x 12 inches wide
  • Care requirements: Full sun; well-drained soil
08 of 09

Radishes

Radish garden

Roger Sherman / GETTY IMAGES

Not everybody loves radishes for eating—they’re a bit spicy—but they grow incredibly fast, tolerate cold weather, and are inexpensive to grow. Regardless of your flavor preferences, why not grow a row or two of radishes early in the spring as a trap crop for the cabbage worm?

  • Zones: 2 to 11
  • Mature size: 4 to 8 inches tall
  • Care requirements: Loose soil; full sun
09 of 09

Dill

Dill umbrellas. Dill blossom.
Ekaterina savyolova / Getty Images

Caterpillars have a reputation for being destructively ravenous, and the tomato hornworm certainly falls into this category—hungrily munching away at the leaves of your precious tomato plants until they are severely damaged. But these heavy diners also enjoy dill. While your dill plants may make charming conversation pieces and smell wonderful, you probably won’t care too much if the tomato hornworms chew down a few—especially if it saves your tomatoes in the process.

  • Zones: Perennial in zones 8 to 10; annual in zones 3 to 7
  • Mature size: 2 to 5 feet tall
  • Care requirements: Full sun, well-drained soil
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  1. Resources, University of California, Division of Agriculture and Natural. “Sunflower Trap Crop Study.

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